"Best Chefs
of 1991"

by JOHN DOERPER

At the Duck Soup Inn, Allison is a virtuoso in the kitchen, with a light touch for delicate seafood such as scallops and shrimp. Her preparations seem deceptively simple, but are actually accomplished and innovative. Her applewood-smoked Westcott Bay oysters topped with cucumber salsa are themselves worth a trip to the island.

"The San Juan Islands"

by JOHN A. GLUSMAN

The Duck Soup Inn, five miles north of Friday Harbor on Roche Harbor Road, is one of the best restaurants on the island and a romantic spot for dinner, with a warm, wood interior subtly lit by hurricane sconces. Among its many excellent offerings were a creamy tomato and black bean soup seasoned with cumin and hot chili, and "vindaloo" clams cooked in wine with garlic, tomatoes, and basil.

"TO HEAVEN
by Ferry Boat"

by BOB PAYNE

Over on San Juan Island, my recommendation is to try the local Westcott Bay oysters at the Duck Soup Inn. Chef and owner Gretchen Allison lightly smokes them with applewood and presents them hot with a sauce based on what is in season.

Although the oysters are popular, it is appropriate, considering Allisons stints at restaurants in California and Hawaii, that her menu has a focus more international than strictly northwest. "It often ends up being northwest since I use local products," she said. "But, to keep it fresh and interesting, I try to pull in many cuisines from around the world."

While waiting for my Sri Lankan prawns with chilies, dates, lime, and dried mango, I noted that when it comes to wine, Allison favors the regional over the international. And, I have to admit that the Evesham Wood Pinot Noir 91, was not only excellent but helped me realize that the painting over my table was not an abstract work, but rather a still life of the first chainsaw on the island.

"The Island Inns of
Washington State"

by CHARLES MICHENER

 ...in a converted woodworking shop, preparing local bounty with great flair. Try the sauteed prawns in wild blackberry sauce.

"Island Dining"

by CYNTHIA NIMS

 ...equally relaxed is the Duck Soup Inn on San Juan Island. This tucked-away restaurant makes the most of regional favorites, many grown just steps away from the kitchen door. Chef/owner Gretchen Allison has packed her kitchen garden with herbs, flowers, fruits and other items that star on her menu. Signature applewood smoked Westcott Bay oysters make a good use of the briny bivalve from the other side of the island. Allison completed an artisan bread course at the San Francisco Baking Institute this winter during the restaurant seasonal closure, so you can just follow the aroma of fresh-made bread to an island treasure.